Napoli; dirty, grungy and magnificent.

Napoli is a city rich in history and tradition, and not to mention, lots of dog poop and trash.  But if you are able to look (literally, mind your every step) past the latter two you will fall in love with this bustling city full towering buildings and narrow streets overflowing with venders selling anything from limoncello to tiny glass figurines made for 'nativity' scenes.

Not only are there marvels above ground but also below, thanks to the Greeks and Romans.  Over many years Greek aqueducts and Roman remains, including a Roman theater, have been built on top of.  In the recent years Neapolitans have learned and taken pride in the history they sit on top of and they are now working on excavating and preserving many sites.  During WWII these were used for protection and hiding places by soldiers and families from bombings.  While the Roman theater lies underground its shape can still be detected outside where houses hold its shape.  It was interesting to see a place so historic and connected to people living today. 

We were only in Napoli for six days (not nearly enough) and we just barely scratched the surface of the birthplace of pizza.  Napoli, to be continued...

Napoli Sotterranea, the mouth to the underground

Twenty steps below, only the first level.  The backstage of the Roman theater and one of the passageways the actors used to be unseen. 

These are called cribs used to depict the history of the city in 1700.  Creepy (says Carli) and really lovely (says Maggie), the figurines are made of wood and handmade.

An old well (the lift with the rocks is the entry way from the city) later used as a shelter during WWII.  When the aqueducts were being built Greek slaves carved tufa stone blocks to build Napoli's city walls, roads and temples. 

An old cistern that supplied water to the common wealth.  There was a separate one for the rich.  In 1884 aqueducts were closed due to a cholera epidemic that killed 1/3 of the population.  In the 1900's digging stopped and two million square meters made up of tunnels and cisterns were abandoned.

Claustrophobia setting in.

Lighting our way through the aqueducts and tunnels.  The aqueducts were engineered to be extremely narrow and tall to increase water pressure at the surface.  Genius!  This only poses problems for those trying traverse there way through, especially if you are a well endowed person or aren't comfortable with small, dark spaces!

One of the places we popped out back above ground.

Pasta anyone? 

Yup, the stairs up to our hostel.  Only three more flights to go.