Saturday, January 28, 2012

Birthday and grapes.

Luigi and his wife on Maggie's birthday.


Does this need a caption?!

Grape plants after roots were cut.

The many, many rows of grapes that were planted.

Work'n hard.

Finito!!!

Finito!!

Hello, Hello!

Today we finally finished planting the grapes!  Whew, over 1,100 planted in five days in weather ranging from snow to sunshine.  At times we couldn't feel our toes and fingers, and at times layers of our clothes could be seen scattered along on the vine posts.  Today we felt pretty accomplished to be finito!  We are interested to find out what our next task will be...

As a side note, I would just like everyone to know that I can't hear myself think at the moment because there are over 15 teenage boys in the next room watching futbol and one team apparently just scored. 

Earlier this was Maggie's 28th birthday, as most of you well know.  We had a great celebration at Luigi's Pizzeria (of course) where we had a cultural alcoholic tour of Italy including vino, birra, grappa and spumante.  It was a good time.  And to make it even better, get ready for this.........Luigi invited us to his house for dinner with him and his family where he is going to teach us how to make pizza!  Ah, dream come true.  Mini film to be made.  Hopefully, we are able to bring home a few pointers so we can make you all the best pizza ever. 

Sicily is looking like a no go for us as there are some serious transportation strikes occuring right now and it seems to be hitting Sicily the hardest in terms of food and fuel shortages.  Tonight we emailed a handful of farms northeast of here in the Molise and Abruzzo regions.  Details to follow.

Peace, love and cigarettes (which we can't seem to escape) from Italia,

C & M

Thursday, January 26, 2012

  
Tineka and Maggie planting the grapes.  Ps. I just want everyone to know that Maggie just broke the air hokey table at the local internet cafe.  Haha.  Good one sis.

Shoveling poop.  haha.  Stinky. 

New fence posts.

Guessappena.  Words cant describe the love in this picture.  Seriously.

Gianpaolo in the wine celar.  Taste taste.

In Salerno.  Night out with Romina!

Maggies dream car.


Putting the grapes in the ground.
Gianpaolo on the left and Salvatore on the right.
Sicignano at night from our casa, population 2,800.

Our farm is just at the foot of this hill in a small village called Zuppino.

Fresh mountain water anyone?!

Castello Guisso.

Our daily walk.

Alburni Mountains

Sunday, January 22, 2012

Mange, Mange, Mange!

It's hard to believe that we have already been at out first farm for over a week now!  We have so much to tell and not much time to do so so bare with us.

The farm: The farm, Il Sentiero Del Riccio, meaning the Way of the Hedgehog, is located outside Salerno about thirty miles.  Named so because, Gianpaulo, the owner of the farm, discovered many hedgehogs on the farm many years ago. Unfortunately, hedgehogs are hybernating at this time so we have yet to see any.  The farm sits at the bottom of the beautiful, ever so cold looking, Alburni Mountains in a village called Zupino.  Main production off the farm includes wine, olive oil and honey.  All of which are harvested, made and bottled on the farm.  We are happy to annouce that we get an endless bounty of all of the above.

The farm is owned by Gianpaulo, who is considered the brains of the operation, and mostly worked by a man named Salvatore.  There is also a family that has lived on the farm for over fiftty years who cooks us lunch every day.  The family includes: Geussapinna, her mother and father and two neices.  Geussapinna stands about four foot three inches, speaks zero English (along with the rest of her family and Salvatore), is very fiesty and likes to tell Maggie that she is going to cut her head off (in a lovingly sort of way...we hope!).  Haha.  Communication is interesting, fun, involves a lot of hand gestures,  and our 6 euro pocket dictionary that goes every where with us! 

Every morning Salvatore (or his wife, or his mother) picks us up in Sicignano (where we live...we'll get to that later) around nine thirty and takes us to the farm, which is about two miles away.  Once we get the farm the work begins!  So far we have shoveled manure throughout 2 to 3 acres of vineyard, cut firewood from pruned trees with machetes (quite interesting), and washed and reorganized the wine cellar.  This next week Gianpaulo is suppossed to get in a order of over 1000 white grape plants that we will be planting!  They will be mature and ready to produce wine in two to three years so we are already planning our trip to come back to help bottle and drink the first batch. 

Sicignano:  Our house in located in a tiny mountain village called Sicignano which sits up higher than Zuppeno at the base of the Alburni Mountains.  It is beautiful and incidentally located about twenty yards away from a giant castle.  It's pretty awesome and very telling of our first five days at the house during which we had no hot water, only one small wall heater and a fire place for heat.  It was pretty cold considering temperatures are falling below zero at night, and we were pretty stinky as we didn't have a proper shower for five days.  We felt pretty old school heating up water on the stove to take a sponge bath, but now we have running hot water and an extra propane heater so life is good!

Everyone is so friendly in Zuppeno and Sicignano and everyone seems to know about our every move.  For example, our first day there we went to the small market across the street from our farm and bought some eggs, butter, milk, yogurt...we put our groceries in the lab while we finished work for the day.  When we came back at the end of the day we walked into the lab to find one of the dogs had eaten all our eggs, a whole brick of butter, and some chocolate candies.  The next day we went back to the market and everyone knew about the dogs eating our groceries and had a good laugh about it.  We have met quite a few people around town and surrounding farms and everyone has been very welcoming.  We get many offers for cafe' and chocolate and even when we say no thank you they bring it out anyway.  Wherever we eat, people want to feed us until we are about to pop.  Food keeps appearing on the table and when you think there wont be any more someone brings out another dish and meals are always finished off with coffee.  Mange, mange, mange...or eat, eat, eat was probably one of the first words that we learned!

We are pretty sure we have found the king of all pizzerias in Sicignano and it's no coincideince that the owners name is Luigi.  Luigi's pizzeria is everything you would dream of in a pizzeria.  Inside you are greeted be wood ceilings, arched stone pilars, a big brick oven and the smell of dough being tossed in the air.  Ah alas, Luigi is already married...darn!  Although, conveniently his pizzeria is less than a two minute walk down the hill from our castle.  Ah, sweet bliss.

Our plans for the future are some what up in the air...we will probably be here through the week and are thinking we might head south to Sicily.  More south equals more warmth.  Any suggestions and or recommendations on where to go are welcome.  We will try to post more soon, although it's difficult in Sicignano because there is no internet.  Pictures hopefully to come soon as well...


Hope you are all doing well and are keeping warm...we hear you are getting lots of snow!

Ciao ciao!

Wednesday, January 11, 2012

A Day in Venezia with the Sun on Our Backs.

Sweet studio apartment we scored for our last night in Venice! Ciao!
Grand Canal.
Another circle we have made!? I guess they call that lost.
Photo courtesy of Carli. She's a natural.
Perfectly still in the reflecting canal.
And I didn't even try to make this pretty!
"Cross old, little bridge..."
Love at first site?
Piazza San Marco and Basilica di San Marco.  Giant.
Lovers ride...and expensive.  Maybe next time.
Ponte di Rialto
Contemplating my new life in Venice.
Ain't she pretty!?
"To the left of the little white church," says the directions.
Our first evening in Venice.



Ciao a tutti!

Thankfully we had a few strokes of luck because we made both of our flights...together! Now we know why some people chose to spend a few extra bucks on first class airfare. Its nice to say the least. We minded our Ps and Qs but nonetheless we still stuck out like sore, rotten thumbs without our Prada and Gucci.

Venice is just like the movies. The colors, the little bridges over turquoise waters, screaming school children behind big beautiful walls, clique gondola drivers in their stripped sweaters and ribbon clad hats, countless stalls selling intricately decorated Venetian masks (we tried oh so hard to get a picture in one, but not without buying of course), pizzerias and gelaterias on every corner, older couples walking arm in arm, fur coats galore, pigeons swooping for the fallen scrap of bread, not a single car (and its oh so nice)...we love it.

Aside from all the loveliness, Venezia is confusingly mind boggling. You make a left turn, then a right, then another left down tiny ally ways only to meet a dead end and you have no idea where you went wrong. The number of streets are endless here and only some of them are marked. Please note the picture of Carli taking a time out to find us on the map, which only helped sometimes. The directions to our hostel was more like a scavenger hunt, "cross the big modern bridge," "pass the train station", "cross the little bridge, at top look to your far left for a yellow water bus sign", "turn left at little white church"...this is what we had to work with! It was more like being on The Amazing Race, only we weren't racing anyone just fatigue. Actually though, we found it easily and apparently even Venetians think Venice is confusing.

Our first snafu with the language barrier, mind you we smoothly ordered lunch earlier in broken Italian, was at the grocery store when an older gentleman attempted to tell us we needed to weigh and print labels for each produce item we were buying. With our arms full, we only assumed he was telling us to get a cart or something, we didn't know; we don't speak Italian. Luckily, Carli is smart. She noticed as were walking up to checkout that we had to get labels for each item, thank God, because there was a line, the checkout lady was less than friendly, and we, yes, we would have been embarrassed. Needless to say we laughed it off on the way back to our cozy, studio apartment. We could fit about 5 more people in here, so the invites open anyone!