Wednesday, April 11, 2012

Capri, the most expensive rock you will ever land on.

Sleep was minimal the night before we headed to Capri as images of Maggie and I cruising the coast on Vespas danced through our heads.  You can only imagine the disappointed on our faces when our business was rejected due to lack of experience.  Apparently in Capri safety is first, unlike the rest of Italy's va bene attitude.  Booo to you man who rejected us.  You will be sorry when we come back and rent a scooter from someone else!!  Yes, we are a little bitter.  Instead we splurged on a ghetto, convertible Fiat taxi driven by an old, conniving man who was persistent about showing us the whole island in the comfort of his back seat.  Only the rich and famous could afford the whole island tour. 

We enjoyed our fifteen minutes of hair blowing fame (actually we felt like stupid tourist schmucks once the ride began...but hey, when in Rome) all the way to the grotta Azzurra.  Here we partook in more money sucking tourist schemes by taking a five minute row boat ride driven by singing Italian men into the sparkling blue grotto.  The white limestone combined with the white sand lights the water on blue fire.  Take a minute and imagine it because our pictures don't really do justice.  Although the trip was only five minutes and more money than we are willing to admit it was worth it.  Our only regret was not defying the 30 grumbling Italian men that would have attacked us had we gone for a swim (swimming was strictly forbidden!!). 

Already haven spent more money on the taxi and boat ride combined than we did in the first month and a half of our trip we decided to take the autobus back to Capri where for the rest of the day we let ourselves get lost in the alleyways and beauty of the island.  Unless you literally are rich and famous this island is a one and done place.  Next time we plan to visit Ischia, another nearby island, that is said to be less expensive, less touristy, more beautiful and with beaches you can actually visit without a name like Brad or Angelina.  Ciao Capri.  Ci vediamo dopo...or not!

Capri and the marina grande

Above the grotta Azzurra

Quequing it up tourist style.

Wow, BELLA. 

If we ever come back to Capri it will be to swim here.  No one will stop us!  And maybe we will know a little more Italian so we can yell back at the 'guards.' 

Attenzione a teste (mind your head).

Wisteria at its finest and purplest. 

Capri in primavera

Soaking up the sole and vista.  Nice panorama. 

VIP only.

Belle stronze.  Haha.
Steve Murray's casa. 

Just a stroll down designer lane.  Prada anyone?

Napoli; dirty, grungy and magnificent.

Napoli is a city rich in history and tradition, and not to mention, lots of dog poop and trash.  But if you are able to look (literally, mind your every step) past the latter two you will fall in love with this bustling city full towering buildings and narrow streets overflowing with venders selling anything from limoncello to tiny glass figurines made for 'nativity' scenes.

Not only are there marvels above ground but also below, thanks to the Greeks and Romans.  Over many years Greek aqueducts and Roman remains, including a Roman theater, have been built on top of.  In the recent years Neapolitans have learned and taken pride in the history they sit on top of and they are now working on excavating and preserving many sites.  During WWII these were used for protection and hiding places by soldiers and families from bombings.  While the Roman theater lies underground its shape can still be detected outside where houses hold its shape.  It was interesting to see a place so historic and connected to people living today. 

We were only in Napoli for six days (not nearly enough) and we just barely scratched the surface of the birthplace of pizza.  Napoli, to be continued...

Napoli Sotterranea, the mouth to the underground

Twenty steps below, only the first level.  The backstage of the Roman theater and one of the passageways the actors used to be unseen. 

These are called cribs used to depict the history of the city in 1700.  Creepy (says Carli) and really lovely (says Maggie), the figurines are made of wood and handmade.

An old well (the lift with the rocks is the entry way from the city) later used as a shelter during WWII.  When the aqueducts were being built Greek slaves carved tufa stone blocks to build Napoli's city walls, roads and temples. 

An old cistern that supplied water to the common wealth.  There was a separate one for the rich.  In 1884 aqueducts were closed due to a cholera epidemic that killed 1/3 of the population.  In the 1900's digging stopped and two million square meters made up of tunnels and cisterns were abandoned.

Claustrophobia setting in.

Lighting our way through the aqueducts and tunnels.  The aqueducts were engineered to be extremely narrow and tall to increase water pressure at the surface.  Genius!  This only poses problems for those trying traverse there way through, especially if you are a well endowed person or aren't comfortable with small, dark spaces!

One of the places we popped out back above ground.

Pasta anyone? 
Yup, the stairs up to our hostel.  Only three more flights to go.



 

Monday, April 2, 2012

From Svizzera to Campania

A day in Torino.

Torino at sunset.

The river running through the city.

Sion, Switzerland.

MOM!  We found your car.  It's a Panda Fiat.  Buy one.


Castle overlooking Sion.  When we got to the top we were greeted by a nice Swiss man who opened the chapel for us to see.  

Almost to the top...

Inside the castle.  What a view!

The chapel.  The only part of the castle that survived a fire.  

Sion from the castle view. 

Gateway to old Siena. This city is truly Tuscan.

Carciofo in one of the many food shops in Siena.

Piazza del Campo. Site of the famous Palio horse race held twice a year.

Gelato. Its too good.

San Gimignano, a medieval village overlooking the fields of Toscana. Really an incredible place.

Toscana in all its beauty. 


Village walls surrounding San Gimignano.

Napoli from the safety of our room balcony.

Our first night in Napoli lead us on a walk through the many piazzas.

Pick up soccer anyone?

Easter celebrations start a week early in Italy and we are guessing this parade had something
to with the holiday. 

Posing in Pompeii. Good to have fresh air and lots of space after the worst train ride from Napoli.

Objects that were preserved after the volcano overtook Pompeii.

Not sure what it is but it was really pretty.

Theater with an incredible view in Pompeii.

Without the guide recorder, we are guessing this is a bathing room.

The streets of Pompeii, watch your step.

Pompeii. Beautiful.
Chiesa at top of hill in Cessole, Piemonte.

Looking down onto Cessole.  

Dopo troppo vino.

Acqui Terme on my birthday.  A day filled with sweet treats.

BBQ lunch.  The cook, Giovanni.  Luca in the background and Eugenia on my left.
Giovanni and Eugenia were the other two WWOOFers at the farm.
Cowboy without a horse.
Tenuta Antica, agroturismo.

Making tagliatelle fresco for the restaurant after having a two minute tutorial in Italian.  Yep, we are that good.  Haha.    


Out comes the pasta.  We want one at home.

Maggie and I's masterpiece.  Irrigation included thanks to Mauro and his brute strength. 

Hard at work replacing broken vine stakes and putting shelters on newly planted ones.  

Ci vediamo crai!  Tribute to all our friends in Sicignano.
Torino.  We were glad we decided to come here even if it was only for one night.  Maggie wants to live here.  If you ever visit Italy Torino should be on your list.
Scared to be in creepy Cessole.