Arpisson

All photos are at Arpisson, minus the animals and the one in the barn which were taken by a previous wwoofer, Odile).  The really unattractive goat is the male of the group and we call him Uggs... looking at him makes me laugh!

Pinch me, I'm dreaming!

Wow, I'm not even sure where to begin. So much has happened since my last post, yet it feels like no time has passed at all. All expectations I had for my current farm were completely blown out of the water; and it may be no surprise to some of you that I've decided to prolong my Italian adventure and remain at Azienda Agricola Arpisson. 

The farm, Azienda Agricola Arpisson, is quietly and impressively nestled in the Gran Paradiso National Park above the adorable yet touristy, mountain town of Cogne. We get to enjoy the beautiful panoramas of slowly melting, snow peaked mountains, including that of towering Mt. Blanc, every second of the day. A combination of mountainous green fields and forest make up most of the fifty acre farm land that the goats have free roam of the cows whose boundaries are constantly changing thanks to portable electric fences. There are about forty milking goats, twenty caprette (young goats), thirty cows, nine monstrous-milk driven vitelli (cafes), eleven oce (geese), chickens and lots of cats and kittens running all over the place. It's unreal. And yes, they all have names (minus the vitelli who are still awaiting their unknown fate...).

The milk producing goats currently share a stable with the cows and get milked by hand twice a day along with the cows. After the goats get milked, which usually takes about two hours, they are set free outside (one lucky wwoofer gets to accompany them) then we begin with the cows. The cows are milked by portable milking machines and also usually take about two hours to milk and they are also let outside after the milking. Normally, I milk both the goats and cows and currently have very sore hands!!

This is when the real fun begins! Think about it. About seventy animals share a stable in which they spend the night and pass part of the morning. It gets pretty dirty and needs to be cleaned every day. At first, naturally, I was A LOT grossed out but after two hours of scraping, shoveling and bucketing up poop and pee (and having these things splashed in places the should never be splashed) I learned I had to get over it real quick and eventually did. It's inevitable that someone has a good poop story to share by the end of the day.

Cheese making occurs every day, goat and cow, specifically Ricotta, Thom (and another kind I can't remember at the moment) along with yogurt and the most delicious butter one has ever tasted! Other daily jobs include feeding the vitelli (which usually turns into a giant milk bath battle), cleaning the other stalls that belong to the caprette and vitelli, washing and salting cheeses in the cellar, changing electric fences, working in the garden and various tasks that come up at random.

Attilio and Gabriella are the two owners of the farm and make every day with it. I try to keep up with them but let me tell you, the life of a dairy farmer is tough. They are never ending machines that love what they do and chose this path because of their for animals and nature. The days are long (6:30am to 12:30am) and the work is never ending, but I love it. And the best has yet to come. July 6th we move all animals up to a high Alp mountain pasture called Arpisson, an hours walk from the lower farm by trail, where we will remain until the end of summer. All the chickens, geese, cats, food and supplies will be taken up by helicopter as there is no road to Arpisson. Life will go on more or less the same although with more impressive views and a bigger backyard consisting of the most beautiful wild flowers whose smell is carried with the wind, rivers made of glacier melt and towering mountains patiently waiting to be climbed. It's impossible to do justice to its beauty and I wish so badly for everyone to experience it as I do. 

Quick description of some photos: all photos of animals were taken down at the lower farm. The barn, cheese cellar, and house are also at the lower farm. Attilio and Gabriella live in the house, wwoofer's quarters are above the barn. The rest of the photos are at Arpisson. In one you can see the house from afar; the cow stable on the left, goat on the right, latteria and cheese cellar in the center, kitchen behind and our bedroom in an attic like room above the kitchen!

OK, hopefully I'll get some more pictures up of Arpisson and my fellow wwoofers soon (two English girls, an American couple and an American man who are all great!!). Tomorrow I'm off to the Dolomites for four days of adventuring then back to the farm! Love to you all, hope everyone is well! And don't forget, you all can drop me an email every now and then... I would be OK with that ;)

Ciao ciao!!

I'll be back. I am back!!! (For you Office fans...)

Oh beautiful Siena, how I've missed your towering city walls, bustling piazzas and squares, your tranquil cobble stoned alleys filled with restaurants and bakeries, and your beautiful panoramas of the countryside that surrounds you. Ahhh, it feels good to be back here.

Last night I met up with Joe, my Italian tutor from Portland who's taking classes here in Siena, and his wife Naomi! They have graciously offered to host me for two nights before I leave for Cogne in the mountainous north. It was pretty crazy to see Joe strolling across the piazza yesterday when I first met up when him after his class. It felt like I was back in Portland once we reached their adorable, tiny flat and he whipped out a piece of paper to give me a mini lesson over some questions I had. Naomi cooked up a killer dinner and we passed the night eating and catching up on each others adventures. Good times!

Today we head to the center of the city for some sightseeing and to enjoy the sunshine that has finally decided to show up. Hopefully more to come on my quick pit stop in Siena before I leave for Cogne. If not, I may be MIA for the next month as I'm not sure I'll have internet access at my next farm or on my adventure to the Dolomites after.

A quick tidbit on my next farm: it's located 5 km up the mountains for Cogne in the Valle d'Aosta region of Italy. On the farm they have thirty plus cows, sixty plus goats, chickens, geese, pigs and horses; and they make and sell cheese, butter and yogurt at the local markets.

If you don't hear from me, know that I'm happily milking goats or (hopefully) learning to make cheese! Lots of love to all!!

The container: casa mia.

My home in Sicignano, come to find out, is referred to as 'il container' by locals. Very much appropriate once you see it. One half of the container serves as the kitchen with a stove, sink, washer and a small table. The other half has two small bedrooms and a modest bathroom between the two. It's small, but cozy, and I can't help but feel like one of the Box Car children living in it.

Last winter Mags and I were appropriately named the "Snowing Twins" because all of the snow we had brought with us, so it's no surprise that this time I have been dubbed the "Rain Sister." Mamma Mia, what a wet, rainy and cold two weeks it has been. It feels more like Portland than Italy! And of course, normally by this time of year the temperature is well into the eighties.

Due to the less than cooperative weather most of my afternoons have been spent inside with Guesippina, Domenico, Antonella, Sabrina e nonna Antonella. Domenico and I have gotten into a routine of playing Scopa (an ever so popular Italian card game) and I try to make the most of my down time by studying a little Italian each day.

When the weather has allowed I've spent most my time working in the vineyard and planting veggies. So far we've planted tomatoes, peppers, celery, zucchini and potatoes. I can best describe my work in the vineyard as "cleaning house." I start by removing the old vines, then remove some of the leaves from the new vines, along with new vines that aren't producing fruit, and finally put any outlying or dangling vines back into place. I really enjoyed working in the vineyard, especially once I figured out what I was supposed to be doing.

Oh, I've also attached a picture of the new vineyard that Maggie and I planted last January. Proud to say that she's doing well and should be producing wine ready grapes in two years! Also, in our absence of last year Sabrina got married and is now expecting a baby boy (Domenico) at the end of this month!

Every day I eat lunch with Guesippina and family, same as last time, although I don't remember the meals being this big! At least this time I actually have the words to say "No more! Stop! Seriously, I'm full and can't eat any more!" The typical response to this of course is "Mangia, mangia!" (Eat, eat!), or "Carli, prendi un altro!" (Take another!). For this I am thankful that dinner is on my own and I have full control over what and how much I eat!

Most evenings are spent in Sicignano, or less frequently, in Zuppino (the town in which I'm staying) hanging out with friends just like no time had passed. It truly feels good to be back here and I can't believe the time has already come for me to be moving on.  Although the weather has been less than desirable, my time here has once again been unforgettable. All the thanks to Guesippina and family, all my friends, and of course, Gianpaolo. Tonight I head into Sicignano to say my goodbyes once again....until next time dear friends!!

Marmellata e formaggio e poi Sicignano.

My last couple days at San Cassiano were pretty mellow and included things like picking cherries, wedding here and there, making marmalade and finally getting to visit the dairy farm across the way.  I can't speak highly enough about Rosanna and her entire family. They were so welcoming and generous and I feel grateful to have been apart of their loving, ever-growing family. I will miss not only the people but the beautiful country side (and my daily walks), the nightly visits from the fireflies (which made me feel like I was living in a movie), working in the garden surrounded by beautiful mountains, Italian lessons given on paper table clothes during dinner and of course, the cooking!

Leaving San Cassiano and the relationships I had formed was a little saddening but knowing that my return to Sicignano awaited me made my departure a little easier. I felt like a kid on Christmas morning once I boarded the train for Sicignano. I grew more eager, and even a little nervous, the nearer the train got to Salerno where I was to be picked up by Gianpaolo. Naturally, I waited a little over an hour for him to arrive. Half expecting his tardiness, I had purposely left myself a few errands that I was able to accomplish in the meantime. I must say though, I waited the last fifteen minutes in the exact spot Maggie and I waited a little over a year ago and it made me a little melancholy not having her at my side. I miss you sister!

Finally, he arrived and it was as if we hadn't skipped a beat. He's still the same 'ol weird Gianpaolo and it was really great to see him again! We had plenty of time to catch up on our drive to the farm as I was quickly reminded how slow he drives while semi trucks whizzed by us on the l'autostrada.

I was not entirely surprised to find out that a new dwelling had been conducted on the farm, a place I would come to call home, and that I would not be staying in Sicignano. Naturally, I was a little disappointed being that the farm is about a mile and a half from Sicignano and my friends. But let's be honest, I wasn't about to let that get in my way and I surely haven't! Catching a ride to and fro hasn't proven to be a problem.

I saw most of my close friends the day after my arrival and it was nothing less than glorious! It felt like a dream to be back and to see everyone again, and not to mention to be able to properly speak with them. Ha, so much fun!! And once again M, not the same without you, and of course everyone sends their salutations. Tanti baci!!

The trek to Lago di Matese.

OK quick note: sorry I've been without internet for the past two and a half weeks and I've finally reached WiFi here in Siena so here are a couple updates! Hope all are well!!

We finally made it to the mountains on Tuesday! Our day started out with a quick breakfast at seven and we were out the door by seven thirty in order to catch the eight ten bus in Piedimonte to San Greggorio (the highest mountain town). We climbed, looped and swerved up a road that looked like it belonged in a cartoon more than anything just long enough to get me green in the face before reaching San Greggorio.

From there we found our way through this really beautiful, historic town and onto a old, seldom used road that would eventually lead us all the way to the lake. Talk about the perfect time to hike in Italy- the weather was perfect, the road and pastures were full of wild flowers and we were the only people to be seen besides a few sparse farmers. The trail took us up, up, up with some impressive views on the way, and finally after three and a half hours, dropped us into the valley and onto flat terrain where Lago di Matese peacefully sits in front of the highest mountain in Campanga.

We enjoyed our picnic lunch, the view, soaked up some rays and squeezed in an nap before beginning our hike back. Knowing we had missed the last bus from San Greggorio meant we were going to have to walk all the way back to the farm. For a little perspective, Piedimonte is the town in the background of the picture of Castello di Matese (town with the castle) and the farm is a forty minute walk from Piedimonte. There's also a picture of the peak the lake sits below taken from the farm. I think you can also vaguely make out Castello di Maltese and San Greggario. We walked over the second ridge and then down into the valley below.

We made it pass San Greggorio and reached Castello di Matese by seven completely exhausted. With only about an hour and a half of day light remaining and a three plus hour walk left we decided to try our luck at hitching. Having never hitched before I felt a little silly and vulnerable at first and then upset when someone would drive by with an empty car. Ha! Not knowing if the "thumbing" signal was universal we all started trying/making up different signs out of desperation! Alas, after our pride had been damaged by continual rejection and strange looks someone stopped!! We couldn't believe it. Even better, turns out the driver knew San Cassiano, is friends of the family and drove us all the way back to the farm. I couldn't have asked for a better first ride as a hitch hiker, but don't worry mom, I don't plan on making a habit out of it. I'll thank my lucky stars and hang up my hitching shoes on a good note! All in all it was a really long and great day and well worth every bit of soreness we endured the next couple of days!